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Monday, October 10, 2011

Dungeness Crab Chitarra




        I am not going to write you out a precise recipe for this dish, because there really is none. This is all techniqueYou can't go out and buy a can of crab from the store and toss it with pasta either. That won't work. If you've done that your missing the point. There are probably more steps than you are used to accomplish this dish. 
            First off catching a whole crab would be the first step. You have the luxury of going to 99 ranch market and picking out your crabs. And If you think about it... the ingredients are very simple. Pasta, crab, chili, scallion, a little lemon and olive oil. Topped with breadcrumbs. Now let me break it down for you. Lets breath romance and a little soul into the dish. So when your friends come over you will have something to talk about.
            The most key ingredient in and pasta dish is and always will be the pasta. Americans are used to overcooked soggy noodles covered in sauce. To the point where the noodles are second to the sauce. A good friend and a Roman Italian took me under his wing when i was a young cook and asked me too cook him a plate of Al dente ( To the tooth) spaghetti with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil. He had me sit down and taste it with him. He told me this was his favorite way to eat pasta. It then dawned on me that the exaggeration was given to me to impress the importance to me the Italian appreciation and pleasure of the pure noodle. And then it dawned on me. Not to focus on the sauce. But to focus on the noodle. And the flour that makes that noodle. For this recipe I use Chitarra. Or.... Guitar Strings. A sheet of pasta is literally pressed through a handheld wood machine made up of guitar strings. The result is a square noodle similar to spaghetti. It is made up of semolina and water. I use Abruzzo Rustico brand for this and you can find it from whole foods.
              The rest is very simple. We buy fresh dungeness crab. Cut off the legs and poach them for 3 to 5 minutes in hot water. Then crack the meat out of them. Crack open the heads and steam them. Then scrape out the heads and puree the crab essence in a blender. I like to add a little sea urchin into the mix with the crab head essence. It helps thicken the sauce and give it a sweet oceanic flavor. The we make a stock out of onion, leek and all the crab shells. The stock is reduced down until it has a deep rich flavor. Slice a little red fresno chili and scallions. Chop some garlic. Cut a lemon in half. And have a bottle of good quality olive oil and a nub of butter on hand. I also have a calabrian chili paste from Tutto Calabria on hand that you can buy on amazon.
              The breadcrumbs are actually called Pan Gratada. Pan gratada was use by the peasants because they could not afford Parmesan Cheese. It is basically flavored bread crumbs. Tear some rustic bread. Pan fry it in EVOO until crispy and golden brown on all sides. Add in chopped garlic, anchovies and lightly brown the garlic. Finish with a little chili flake, lemon zest, salt, pepper and parsley. Process until you have course breadcrumbs and then return to the pan to fry and get crispy. Cool on a flat plate so they don't steam.
             Cook the pasta until "Al dente." Remember !!! You want to finish the very slightly toothsome pasta in the sauce. The Italian term is "To Drag" it in the sauce. Meanwhile In a saute pan fry a little garlic and chili in olive oil. Add the white part of the scallion and sweat. Add your crab stock and butter. Fold in the crab, a little squeeze of lemon. Gently toss and finish the pasta in the sauce. At this time add your crab head essence. You can always add a little pasta water if the pan is to dry. Add your green scallion, a little olive oil, Top with some breadcrumbs... And Enjoy !!!