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Friday, July 29, 2011

Tuna Conserva vs. Chicken of the Sea

   On a fellow chefs travels to Spain she brought us back a smorgasbord of canned seafood critters ranging from baby octopus and barnacles, to mussels and clams. We devoured them with a piquant vinegar sauce and to our delight it ruined any memories of the conveyer belt canned tuna we had grown to know. In some parts of the world these canned treasures are a delicacy and you will pay top dollar for them.
    Working for suzanne I can remember the Ortiz Ventresca Tuna de Bonito del Norte that was shipped in from Spain to top our Pan Bagnat. A Niscoise style tuna sandwich that boasted the olive oil packed tuna on french baguette dressed with a little lemon and caper, and topped with aioli, soft boiled eggs and tapenade. I can still taste in to this day. It brings me back.
    Take the massed production capitalist american water filled chicken of the sea. And weight it in next to the hand selected delicately poached olive oil packed european tuna and there is no winner by decision. It is a clear knockout in the first round. The referee didn't even have a chance to stop the fight. I mean who calls tuna "chicken of the sea" anyway?
    Now, I understand the craze about eating raw tuna. It is delicious. But don't let your misconception of canned tuna go any furthur. Try this recipe or at least go by a can of the ortiz tuna at whole foods. Don't stir it up with miracle whip. Just drain it. Add a little lemon, olive oil and some sea salt. Serve it over a white bean salad with some grilled leeks, a soft boiled egg, fried capers and a little tonnato sauce. Or toss it with a panzanella of tomatoes and cucumbers with some vinegar.  Either way it won't disappoint.  



For this recipe we are folding in the tuna with padron peppers that have been cooked over a charcoal flame. On a dried fava bean puree with pickled radishes a Calabrian chili oil and some black sea salt crackers. Make the tuna a couple of days before to let the tuna complexity seep in.

1 # of Tuna. Preferably Ahi or Yellowfin. Cut into 1 1/2 to 2 inch slabs.
a bulb of fennel cut in half, a half of a red onion, a lemon cut in half
a couple bay leaves,  2 tablespoons of black peppercorns, a sprig of rosemary
a piece of calabrian chili torn in half


    Cover all of the aromatics with about 4 quarts of water. Bring to a simmer and let the court boullon infuse for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile season the tuna aggressively with sea salt on all sides while the aromatics are coming together. Put the tuna into a container large enough to cover the tuna in by 2 inches with the court bouillon. Let sit in the court bouillon for 12 minutes and then with a small knife peek inside. The tuna should be about medium and slightly opaque. Let the tuna carry over until just before medium well. It should be bright pink throughout. If it is not you have gone to far. Break apart by hand a piece of the tuna during this process to really see whats going on inside. Let the tuna rest on a dry linen for about 20 minutes until it is to room temperature and until it is dry.  I like to put the tuna in a mason jar covered with a lemon peel and a couple of bay leaves then drowned in olive oil.  When you are ready to serve then break up the tuna with a little anchovy, lemon and olive oil. Add sea salt if it needs.        

For the Fava bean Puree.                

2 cups of peeled dried favas
9 cups of water
1 cup of olive oil
5 garlic gloves smashed
1/2 of a sweet onion
1 calabrian chili torn in half                  
a sprig of rosemary

You can sub out dried white beans or cranberry beans if you like. But I like the taste of the dried fava. It gives a slight nuttiness and sweetness. First you are going to sweat the onions, rosemary, garlic and Calabrian chili in olive oil until onions are tender. Add the favas and coat in the oil. Cover with water and cook for about 1 hour until beans are breaking apart. Drain off the bean liquid and reduce until about  1 cup and then puree adding the bean liquid until you have the consistency of a loose hummus. Reserve and keep warm by covering.



For the padron peppers  you will just toss them in olive oil and sea salt and cook them over charcoal or oak. Applewood works well to.  If padron peppers are not in season then a shishito's work just fine. The secret here is to not overcook them. You want a high heat flame to char the skin and absorb the smoke flavor but you don't want them to be mush. And remember they will continue to soften when you take them off the flames. Cut the tops off of them after they have come to room temperature.

For the Olive Oil and Black Salt Crackers you will need:  

2 cups of "00" Flour ( Order on Amazon)
1/4 cup of water
1 Tablespoon of Wheat germ
1 Tablespoon of Olive Oil
1/2 a teaspoon of Kosher Salt
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
Olive oil for brushing
Black Sea Salt Flakes ( Whole Foods) You can buy by the gram

In a mixer with a dough hook combine all ingredients and mix until combined and forms a sticky ball. Let rest covered with a towel for 10 minutes. Cut into quarters, dust your hands with flour and roll through a pasta machine or with a rolling pin until you get it very thin. Brush the bottom of a sheet tray with olive oil and place the cracker dough on top. Brush with more olive oil and black sea salt and bake at 500 degrees until golden brown. Let the Cracker cool and break into medium size rustic pieces.

To finish I just garnish with slices of radish that have been soaked with rice wine vinegar for about 10 minutes. And then we mix calabrian chili paste with lemon, fish sauce, and olive oil.