“ At the dinner table, if there is no food, Nobody is Arguing.” As little as we have accrued traditions such as Clam Chowder and Caesar Salad. Italians have an arsenal of rituals developed generations before we were conceived.To have a food feud in Italy is par for the course. Italian food culture is this. Use what is around you. Something unfamiliar to us. Join me on my quest and lets engage the soul of Italian food whole heartedly.
I
am not going to write you out a precise recipe for this dish,
because there really is none. This is all techniqueYou can't go
out and buy a can of crab from the store and toss it with pasta
either. That won't work. If you've done that your missing the
point. There are probably more steps than you are used to
accomplish this dish.
First off catching a whole crab would be the
first step. You have the luxury of going to 99 ranch market
and picking out your crabs. And If you think about it... the
ingredients are very simple. Pasta, crab, chili, scallion, a
little lemon and olive oil. Topped with breadcrumbs. Now let me
break it down for you. Lets breath romance and a little soul into
the dish. So when your friends come over you will have something
to talk about.
The
most key ingredient in and pasta dish is and always will be the
pasta. Americans are used to overcooked soggy noodles covered in
sauce. To the point where the noodles are second to the
sauce. A good friend and a Roman Italian took me under his wing
when i was a young cook and asked me too cook him a plate of
Al dente ( To the tooth) spaghetti with sea salt and extra virgin
olive oil. He had me sit down and taste it with him. He told me
this was his favorite way to eat pasta. It then dawned on me that
the exaggeration was given to me to impress the importance to me
the Italian appreciation and pleasure of the pure noodle. And then
it dawned on me. Not to focus on the sauce. But to focus on the
noodle. And the flour that makes that noodle. For this recipe I
use Chitarra.
Or.... Guitar Strings. A sheet of pasta is literally pressed
through a handheld wood machine made up of guitar strings.
The result is a square noodle similar to spaghetti. It
is made up of semolina and water. I use Abruzzo Rustico brand for
this and you can find it from whole foods.
The
rest is very simple. We buy fresh dungeness crab. Cut off the legs
and poach them for 3 to 5 minutes in hot water. Then crack the
meat out of them. Crack open the heads and steam them. Then scrape
out the heads and puree the crab essence in a blender. I like to
add a little sea urchin into the mix with the crab head essence.
It helps thicken the sauce and give it a sweet oceanic flavor. The
we make a stock out of onion, leek and all the crab shells. The
stock is reduced down until it has a deep rich flavor. Slice a
little red fresno chili and scallions. Chop some garlic. Cut a
lemon in half. And have a bottle of good quality olive oil and a
nub of butter on hand. I also have a calabrian chili paste from
Tutto Calabria on hand that you can buy on amazon.
The
breadcrumbs are actually called Pan Gratada. Pan gratada was use
by the peasants because they could not afford Parmesan Cheese. It
is basically flavored bread crumbs. Tear some rustic bread. Pan
fry it in EVOO until crispy and golden brown on all sides. Add in
chopped garlic, anchovies and lightly brown the garlic. Finish
with a little chili flake, lemon zest, salt, pepper and parsley.
Process until you have course breadcrumbs and then return to the
pan to fry and get crispy. Cool on a flat plate so they don't
steam.
Cook
the pasta until "Al dente." Remember !!! You want to
finish the very slightly toothsome pasta in the sauce. The Italian
term is "To Drag" it in the sauce. Meanwhile In a saute
pan fry a little garlic and chili in olive oil. Add the white part
of the scallion and sweat. Add your crab stock and butter. Fold in
the crab, a little squeeze of lemon. Gently toss and finish the
pasta in the sauce. At this time add your crab head essence. You
can always add a little pasta water if the pan is to dry. Add your
green scallion, a little olive oil, Top with some breadcrumbs...
And Enjoy !!!